Saturday, January 17, 2026

Visiting the haunted Z Ward at the former Glenside Mental Hospital


 Stepping into Z Ward is like entering a different era. The exterior's polychromatic brickwork and ventilation flues hint at the building's original purpose – a maximum-security facility for South Australia's "criminally insane" from 1885 to 1973.

Inside, the corridor stretches out with single cells on either side, some still with original doors and fixtures. The "Ha Ha Wall" is a striking feature – a clever design for security without a prison-like appearance. Guides share stories of infamous patients like John Treffene and the harsh treatments they endured, like lobotomies and electroconvulsive therapy.

The atmosphere's heavy, with a sense of the desperation and despair that once filled the ward. Yet, there's also a sense of history and a glimpse into the evolution of mental health care. The National Trust offers guided tours, bringing the stories and architecture to life.

A WARD SET APART

Built by W. Pett & Son between 1884 and 1885, Z Ward was completed for £8,960-a significant investment in the era's approach to mental health and public safety.

Opened in 1888 as part of the Parkside Lunatic Asylum, Z Ward (originally called L Ward) was purpose-built to hold patients considered criminal or dangerous. Positioned at the rear of the site, it kept these individuals separated from the wider asylum community.

ARCHITECTURE AND DESIGN

Z Ward was designed by South Australia's Architect in Chief, E.J. Woods the same architect behind Adelaide's General Post Office and Parliament House. His signature polychromatic brickwork, using contrasting colours to create intricate patterns, is clearly visible on the ward's exterior.

Surrounding the building is a rare example of a ha-ha wall: a six-metre barrier formed by a high outer wall and a deep inner trench. The design restricted escape while preserving views from inside the grounds. Z Ward's ha-ha wall is the last complete structure of its kind in Australia.

BUILT FOR SECURITY

Z Ward, former Glenside Mental Hospital

Inside, small cells line both levels of the building, reflecting its role as a secure institution. Patients were locked in their cells at night but could spend time during the day in a shared dayroom or exercise yard. Security features - from barred steel entry doors to reinforced windows - ensured constant containment.

Throughout most of its history, Z Ward housed up to 45 male patients considered dangerous or linked to serious crime. While the wider Parkside Asylum included many people convicted of minor offences - from drunkenness to disorderly behaviour - Z Ward was reserved for those viewed as a threat to themselves or others.

WHO STAYED IN Z WARD?

People were sent to Z Ward for three main reasons:

  • They were judged too dangerous for the general asylum population
  • They became mentally unwell while serving time in gaol
  • They were acquitted on grounds of insanity and detained "at the Governor's Pleasure"

Criminal records show a wide range of offences among those admitted, from receiving stolen property and larceny to indecent assault, shooting with intent, and even murder.

Life inside Z Ward must have been quite bleak. The Cells are small, poorly lit and would have been cold in winter.

A day room with a fireplace allowed patients to meet and socialise, while an airing court or exercise yard at the rear enabled patients to go outside and walk around the building.

Inside the ward, cells on both the ground and upper floors give indication of the types of patients that Z Ward housed. While restricted to their cells at night, the dayroom on the ground floor and an outside courtyard gave space to move and interact. Attention to security can be seen through the two barred steel doorways on entrance to the ward, and the use of steel framed windows.

DIAGNOSING THE MIND

When patients arrived, doctors recorded their symptoms according to the limited medical understanding of the era. Many were given broad diagnoses such as "general weakness of mind" or "general paralysis of the insane.

More specific behaviours were sometimes noted, offering a glimpse into both the patients' experiences and the attitudes of the time:

  • "Delusions connected to religion"
  • "Wants black clothes to go to a funeral"
  • "Leans out of bed to listen to people under the floor"
  • "Delusions as to being pursued by the other prisoners"

These records remind us that behind every diagnosis was an individual - confined within a system still learning how to understand and care for mental illness.

The Penfold Story


In 1844, toward the end of the Australian winter, the barque Taglioni anchored at Largs Bay in South Australia. The vessel, of about 350 tons, had been built four years earlier at Ramsey on the Isle of Man. It was classed A1 at Lloyd’s and was owned and commanded by Captain V. Black. Despite being well equipped for its time, a voyage of more than 13,000 miles by small sailing ship in the mid-nineteenth century was demanding. 

Wednesday, January 14, 2026

Europe’s 20 top trending hotspots for 2026



Europe remains firmly on Australians’ travel bucket lists in 2026, with 1 in 4 Australians planning a trip to the continent in the next year, according to Omio’s annual NowNext report. Notably, as travellers plan ahead, 34% say they’re actively seeking out less-crowded, under-the-radar destinations - particularly across Europe.

Capital cities continue to feature prominently in travel plans, though European travel patterns are showing signs of diversification. In addition to established city destinations, some travellers are increasingly considering smaller and less well-known locations. Booking data from multi-modal travel platform Omio indicates this shift, aligning with findings from its annual NowNext Report produced with YouGov.

Tuesday, January 13, 2026

Emily and Charlotte Bronte in Moscow: Frostbite and Fancy in Red Square


 We came to Moscow as one might enter a dream that has hardened into stone. Winter had sealed the city in iron silence. Snow lay not gently but with authority, pressed into the streets like an edict, whitening even the darkest intentions. My sister walked beside me, her breath a pale banner unfurled against the cold, and together we crossed a world that seemed determined to remember us long after our names had fallen quiet.

Saturday, January 10, 2026

If Mark Twain Visited Prague in Winter

It is a most curious fact that a man can grow quite frozen in body and yet remain red-hot in temper, and nowhere is this more evident than in Prague during the month of January. I arrived bundled, muffled, swaddled, and altogether rendered into something not unlike a trussed turkey, though perhaps less festive. The frost had the manners of a vagrant—bold, uninvited, and thoroughly impolite. It crept into boots, bit the nose, and showed a particular fondness for one's ears.

Wednesday, January 7, 2026

Wawel: Where Kraków Keeps Its Memory


Rising quietly above the Vistula, Wawel Castle and Cathedral reveal Poland’s royal, spiritual and cultural heart—layered in stone, shaped by centuries and still deeply present in the life of the city.

The walk up to Wawel is so understated you almost miss the moment it begins. One minute you’re beside the Vistula, watching it slide past with unhurried confidence, the next you’re climbing gently away from the riverbank. Kraków, usually animated by cafés, trams and students, seems to soften here. The street surface changes underfoot, the gradient does the work of slowing you down, and the city’s deeper story quietly takes hold.

Tuesday, January 6, 2026

Where Empires Drift: A Passage Through the Bosporus


On a working waterway that divides continents, Istanbul reveals itself as a city shaped by currents, conflict and continuity, where ancient stone and modern steel drift side by side.

 The Bosporus was awake before the city admitted it. A thin light lay on the water like beaten tin, and the current ran hard and purposeful, as it had done long before men learned to give it names. The small ferry pushed off from the quay with a grunt of engines, nosing into the strait as if testing the mood of an old, unpredictable companion. Istanbul, sprawling and restless, leaned over the water on both sides, watching itself go by.

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